Raising the "Bar" and Hitting the Sweet Spot: Artisanal Chocolate of India
Women working on the farm photo credit Bon Fiction
Until about a decade or two ago, chocolates in India almost always meant bars manufactured by large corporations such as Cadbury or Amul. So the lure of the ‘foreign’ chocolate bought abroad was simply irresistible. This scenario has however, witnessed a sea change especially in the last decade with an increasing number of home-grown brands enticing Indian customers with their delectable chocolates.
Cacao only grows near the equator, and while India is not a top cacao producing country, it is the number one cacao producing country in Asia.
The companies producing handcrafted chocolates in India today are doing so with a focus on indigenous ingredients and native flavors. More importantly, most of these businesses have a community-first approach with an emphasis on sustainability, ethical sourcing, health and empowering women employees. These companies also prioritize transparency in ensuring fair compensation for cocoa farmers and follow environmentally sustainable practices.
Artisanal Chocolate in India: from bean to bar
Ragi Flakes bar photo courtesy Chitra'm craft chocolates
Artisanal chocolates are known for their diverse and complex flavor profiles, which can vary depending on the origin of the cocoa beans and the chocolate-making process and the terroir of the region may reflect fruity, nutty, floral and other nuanced flavors. Growing cocoa as an intercrop along with banana, areca nut, mango etc is a common practice and these neighboring crops have a subtle influence on the flavour of the cocoa beans, a phenomenon known as flavor incorporation.
Most of the artisanal chocolate companies in India follow the bean-to-bar, from growing or selectively sourcing cocoa beans to roasting, grinding, conching, and tempering. This allows for greater control over the final products’ flavor. The last few years has also seen the rise in consumer demand for clean, ethically produced and locally soured foods with an emphasis on quality. This has also fueled the artisanal chocolate movement in India. While Dr. Arun Viswanathan, founder of Chitra’m Craft Chocolates believes that the market for artisanal chocolates in India is still in the nascent stage with tremendous untapped potential, he also shares that, “The COVID-19 pandemic has also been a key factor in the exponential rise of entrepreneurs who are tech-savvy and willing to experiment. This has led to an increase in the number of craft chocolate makers.”
5 Major Artisanal Chocolate Companies from India
Anuttama Coconut Sugar, Bella Tharai and Dates bars photo courtesy Anuttama
A Farm-to-Bar artisanal chocolate company established in August 2020 amidst the pandemic, they are located in Bettampady which is about 40 miles from the coastal city of Mangalore in south India. The brand, whose name translates into the “best of best” in Kannada, grows its own cocoa which is cultivated locally along with pepper, banana, coconut and areca nut. Founders Balasubrahmanya P S and Swathi Kallegundi share, “Our chocolates are crafted naturally with non-alkalised cocoa and without the use of any chemical treatments. Our overarching vision is to offer a healthier alternative for chocolate enthusiasts, featuring dark chocolates processed using natural methods and flavors. We are also dedicated to supporting the local community while generating employment opportunities.” Some of their key flavors include the award winning, internationally acclaimed Spicy Tang, which is a 62% dark chocolate that has harmonious blends of jaggery, ginger, and locally grown pepper. Bella Tharai is crafted using coconut milk and jaggery is an ode to the local flavors of the region. Natural ingredients like jaggery, dates, and coconut sugar are used as sweeteners and their bars are devoid of preservatives, artificial colors/flavors, vegetable fats, or emulsifiers.
Inclusion chocolates photo credit Bon Fiction
With cocoa hand-picked from farms in the Godavari region of Southern India, this brand focuses on sorting, fermenting, drying and stone-grinding the beans using traditional processes. Situated in Rajamahendravaram, Andhra Pradesh in south India, the brand uses dynamic post-harvest processing methods to create flavor. Founder Akhil Grandhi shares that improved fermentation techniques yield less bitterness adding, “Each component and ingredient is made to complement the chocolate and its natural flavor notes.” Apart from their award-winning Mango Menace (55% Dark Alphonso Mango Chilli) and Out in the dark (73% dark), their 55% dark rose pistachio chocolate and 64% dark orange cinnamon chocolate are worth biting into.
Mango Lassi photo courtesy Chitra'm craft chocolates
Based in the south Indian city of Coimbatore, Chitra’m sources it cocoa from select farms in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. With a firm belief that the art of chocolate offers a delightful journey in storytelling and invoking nostalgia, the brand is known for its indigenous flavors. The company reinterprets many Indian delicacies in the form of chocolate.
Shares founder Dr Arun Viswanathan, “Our bestsellers are Mango Lassi (one of the most sought-after drinks in India), Holy Fruit Trio (a blend of mango in dark chocolate with banana and jackfruit inclusions which is traditionally considered an auspicious offering in Southern India) and Rasmalai white chocolate (a reinterpretation of a traditional dish of milk curds cooked in a sugar syrup with nuts, saffron and cardamom, with a healthy twist of pepper). The Masala Chaas is made without any added sugar and is one of our most interesting flavors containing a yogurt base and a very authentic blend of spices.” Their packaging is replete with elements of folklore (like animals, plants and Kalpavriksham or the mythical wish-fulfilling tree), is a key aspect of the story telling tradition in India, and to the brand’s identity.
Mason & Co bars photo courtesy Mason & Co
Based in Auroville, an experimental township in the southern state of Tamil Nadu, Mason & Co is known for their ethical and sustainable practices. “Our beans are sourced directly from farms and co-ops in South India, we have traceability and transparency on our supply chain and our beans and processes are organic certified. We do not use chemicals at any stage. By following the bean-to-bar process, we can ensure the terroir and quality of the cacao comes to the forefront. Many of our processes are done by hand to ensure the natural flavour and quality of the cacao is maintained and celebrated” says Mansi Reddy, Head of Brand & Marketing, Mason & Co. The brand recently installed solar panels and hence 25% of the energy used is now clean energy. They have also installed a water filtration system to reduce and re-use water. Some of their best-selling flavours include the 85% Intense, 75% Zesty Orange and the 70% Sea Salt bars.
Soklet bars photo courtesy Soklet
India’s first tree to bar brand, this one grows its cocoa on pesticide-free farms along with coconut, nutmeg, pepper and banana creating a medley of subtle influences on the cocoa beans. The plantation is located in the pristine Anamalai foothills of south India. “Most of our processing is by hand and we employ a number of women. Even most of our machinery is locally manufactured” say Karthikeyan Palaniswamy and Harish Manoj, founders, Soklet. Their packaging is heavily inspired by the rich yet elegant silk sarees of the region and the unique unique flavors include Filter Kaapi (55% Dark milk chocolate with arabica coffee and chicory root), 55% milk chocolate enhanced by aromatic ghee (clarified butter) and 70% dark chocolate with hibiscus and pumpkin seeds.