Chocolate Secrets from Master Pastry Chef Jean Francois Houdre

Executive Pastry Chef Jean Francois Houdre

Guests of the Westin St. Francis might be surprised to learn that in the basement of the grand Union Square hotel is a baking operation that rivals any bakery. A brigade of chefs is hard at work, creating fantastic confections under the guidance of Jean Francois Houdre, the long-time executive pastry chef. Houdre is a calm teacher and multitasker, focused on several things at once yet frequently checks in with each member of his team.

Pastry departments like this one used to be the norm at restaurants and hotels, but as it has been widely reported, pastry chefs are disappearing as the hospitality industry trims budgets.

Humble and somewhat shy, Houdre’s brown eyes sparkle when he talks about his craft and when he shares his favorite chocolate truffles. He has an impressive background, having grown up in a bakery in the South of France. He studied baking in Paris and has worked as a baker and pastry chef his whole life. It’s a level of dedication to craft that shows in everything he does and the way he leads his team.

Exquisite plated chocolate desserts at the Westin St. Francis

Houdre is renowned for his exquisite holiday sugar castles that grow larger and more impressive each year. But his chocolates, plated desserts, and dreamy pastries and candies are equally noteworthy. A true master of his craft, never satisfied with his past achievements, he travels to Europe every year to try new things and is constantly developing impressive creations.

Just spending a few hours with the chef we glean many tips and techniques.

Chocolate Tips

Chocolate Croissants

Houdre's chocolate croissants are large, flaky and rich with chocolate.

The pastry must be dry to form a crust during baking, so allow the formed croissants to dry after proofing in a humid environment

Typically baked at 24c, the temperature needs to be adjusted depending on the weather
To take chocolate croissants to the next level, fill with lemon curd and top with meringue, then burnish before serving

Brownies

Brownies are a favorite of many guests. The texture is between cakey and fudgy.

Remove brownies from the oven a little under-baked, and allow carryover heat to finish them

Only cut brownies when they are cool or they will crumble

Chocolate Madeleines

Houdre makes a variety of madeleines but his chocolate version is a specialty.

A little buckwheat flour adds rustic texture, flavor, color and reduces the gluten
Don't overmix the batter and let it rest overnight in the fridge to yield more pliable and more flavorful madeleines
Use a pastry bag to expertly fill the madeleine pan
Metal madeleine pans conduct heat better than silicone
To create the characteristic "hump" let the dough rest, freeze then baked directly from the freezer
Cooled Madeleines can be dipped in chocolate or filled with fruit fillings.

Chocolate Inspiration

If you’re looking to taking your baking to the next level, it’s important to keep exploring.

Chocolate croissant with lemon curd and meringue

Houdre travels in search of new creations, but at home he scours Instagram
There's lots of pastry creativity in London, more than in France right now

Locally in San Francisco, he is a fan of bakeries including Butter and Crumble and Maison Nico

If you’re not a baker, you’re in luck, you don’t even have to be a guest of the hotel to experience Houdre’s handiwork. In addition to his holiday masterpiece that graces the lobby of the hotel, his creations can be found year-round in the hotel’s Café Rito.