Chocolate Shops We Love: Cocoa Tree Chocolates

Fans of Abby Mandel’s truffles may want to thank Colorado’s high altitudes, and some exploding cakes, for her move away from baking and into chocolate making. Mandel started selling chocolates online, and from farmers markets and pop-up shops, in 2019 while living in Carbondale, CO. She moved to Dobbs Ferry, NY in 2021, and opened Cocoa Tree Chocolates in December 2022.

The Science of Taste

Mandel, who started baking at an early age, thought she might go to pastry school when she was growing up. She ultimately took a different path – studying neuroscience as an undergraduate at McGill University and then going on to get her PhD from Cornell University in Taste Perception Science – combining her love of baking with her scientific nature. She went on to conduct research at the Monell Chemical Senses Center, Philadelphia, PA, an institute dedicated to taste and smell research.

Upon moving to Colorado in 2013, Mandel found a lack of scientific jobs so she pivoted back to her first love, baking, and to chocolate. As with many budding entrepreneurs, Mandel found a receptive audience in family and friends. Her fascination with chocolate was cemented by a chocolate boot camp at the Melissa Coppel Chocolate and Confectionery School, Las Vegas, NV. Upon moving back to NY, Mandel completed a degree in Pastry Arts at the Institute of Culinary Education, finishing with an externship at Hakan Chocolatier, Beacon, NY, to further her knowledge of all things chocolate.

The Shop

The 600 sq ft space serves as both sales space and workshop. “This gives customers an opportunity to see what I’m working on and ask questions.” Mandel says. She’s found that customers are very curious about her process and that her interactions allow them to feel a part of what she’s creating.

At the store Mandel generally offers between nine and 12 different truffle flavors at a time. All the choices “look to balance the components of saltiness, sweetness and bitterness.” And her scientific background allows her to recognize that there are individual differences in taste perception. “I always have at least five or six other people try a flavor before I release it, to make sure everyone is getting the flavor the same way that I do.”

And if there are individual perceptions in taste, there are also individual perceptions in the looks of the truffles. “Every piece of chocolate is unique, as I’m hand-painting each one using a paintbrush, finger, or even a toothbrush,” Mandel says.

The Best Selling Chocolates

Mandel reports that 95% of the chocolate she uses is from the French chocolate company, Valrhona, though she does occasionally utilize some French Cacao Barry chocolate as well. “Every chocolate I use has to perfectly complement each specific truffle flavor – for example the 64% Cacao Barry chocolate in my Coconut Passionfruit truffle has many hints of coconut and fruit flavor.” And some of Mandel’s truffles feature a single origin 70% dark Tanzanian chocolate from her next-door neighbor ThePod by CocoaCompassion.

Mandel shares three examples of chocolates that exemplify her philosophy on enjoying her creations – with all of her chocolates she wants her customers to get the whole experience of eating a truffle or one of her bars. “I really hope people take in the entire arc of the chocolate, appreciating and focusing on the progression of flavors and textures.”

Coconut Passionfruit Truffle

“This is our best-seller. It’s a dark chocolate and passionfruit ganache paired with a white chocolate coconut ganache. The combination is very powerful, with the bitter dark chocolate and sour passionfruit toned down and balanced with the white chocolate,” shares Mandel.

Cherry Cayenne

Cocoa Tree Chocolates truffle selection — Cocoa Tree truffle selection

Mandel says with this truffle, you first get a burst of cherry, which is both sour and sweet. This is followed by berry and star anise flavors, then finally the spiciness from the cayenne. The truffle uses the 70% single origin chocolate from ThePod, which has some amazing dried and fresh berry flavors. The combination of all the flavors together creates a really interesting progression.

Chocolate Hazelnut Ganache Bar

Ganache filled bars by Cocoa Tree Chocolates — Ganache filled bars

Shares Mandel, “This is really smooth and velvety. A coffee caramel ganache layer is complemented by a hazelnut gianduja with dark chocolate and cacao nibs. The cacao nibs add crunch and a little bitterness, which contrasts with the sweetness of the ganache. I don’t like things to be super-sweet, so I try to add in some bitterness or sour elements.”