How Chocs 'N Boxes Brings Tree to Bar Chocolate from the Philippines to Chicago

Gerry Dean Harvesting Cacao Photo Credit Chocs 'N Boxes

Outside the Chicago doorstep of immigration attorney Gerardo “Gerry” Dean sits a recently delivered wooden pallet overflowing with green sacks. Inside the bags are freshly harvested cacao beans, grown on a Filipino rainforest farm so remote it’s accessible only by foot or water buffalo. Cacao beans soon to be transformed into bars and bonbons that include the award-winning calamansi caramel bonbons and mango chocolate bars for Chicago’s Chocs ‘N Boxes loyal fans.

Ten years ago, the phrase ‘tree-to-bar chocolate’ (ownership of every step from seedling to finished bar) was an unknown concept to Gerry. Today, not only is Gerry co-owner of a thriving chocolate-making company with his chef wife, Sailyn Dean, but he is also credited with planting the 11,000 cacao trees supplying their Chicago chocolate facility. The family’s tree-to-bar journey to Chocs ‘N Boxes begins 8,000 miles away on the remote Philippine Island of Samar.

Finding inspiration in a coconut grove

Samar Island, Phillipines Cacao Trees Photo Credit Chocs 'N Boxes

Growing up in the Philippines, owners Gerry and Sailyn Dean never pictured themselves starting a chocolate factory in Chicago. In 2002, the couple married and relocated to Illinois, building thriving careers in law and nursing. But their focus shifted after a 2015 visit to a Philippine coconut farm owned by Gerry’s father. The remote farm sits on a poverty-stricken island where farmers rely solely on coconut trees for income. Gerry, recognizing the island farmers’ need for a profitable alternative to coconut, considered compatible replacement crops. While researching, Gerry discovered cacao seedlings are perfectly suited for the rich Samar soil and ample shade of the protective jungle habitat. So in 2015, standing among the coconut trees on his father’s 20-hectare farm, Gerry and Sailyn found inspiration for their new family mission: To ensure the long-term sustainability of new cacao farms for the marginalized people of Samar. Gerry explains: “Planting cacao trees was one of the things I thought we could do to make a difference among the lives of the people in the island of Samar, one of the poorest islands of the Philippines.”

The farming journey begins, one cacao tree at a time

“Our chocolate journey started with planting trees in 2016, “Gerry says, “but using only agroforestry.” That year, 5,000 cacao seedlings were planted underneath tall coconut trees, preserving the native habitat of the established rainforest. Every year since, on this farm accessible only by foot, the planting has expanded by 2,000 seedlings annually for a total of 11,000 trees.

Harvesting cacao Photo Credit Chocs 'N Boxes

Water buffalo and midges: the Philippine rainforest

As Gerry waited for cacao trees to mature, he focused on expanding his knowledge of farming. Simultaneously he was careful not to neglect his attorney responsibilities, relying on his legal practice to fund their cacao mission. Traveling between the two countries, Gerry immersed himself in proper cacao fermentation and drying techniques to maximize cacao flavor. He built a nursery to ensure the ongoing supply of cacao seedlings for his and other farms. He created two game-changing, highly effective organic fertilizers that could be made low cost on-island. The new organic material was so rich it caused a surprising increase in the rainforest midge population. (Midges are cherished native insects critical to pollination of cacao trees.) Gerry trained his community on each precise step of cacao farming, harvesting, and processing. All of these projects relied on the use of water buffalo, not trucks, for transport of materials and crops to and from the isolated jungle farmlands.

Tree to bar, making chocolate in Chicago

Single origin dark chocolate bar Photo Credit Chocs 'N Boxes

But 4 years later in 2019, as the trees matured and post-harvesting techniques were perfected, the community faced a new hurdle. They’d succeeded at cultivating a bountiful and well-fermented cacao crop but lacked consistent buyers. Never one to shy from action, Dean and Sailyn decided “Let’s make chocolate in Chicago!” The two enrolled in a year of intensive chocolate training. In addition to culinary school, Sailyn trained one-on-one with French Master Pastry Chef Yann Migault for 4 months, perfecting each recipe prior to opening the shop. Finally, in 2021, their Filipino-based chocolate creations were ready for sharing.

Head Chocolatier Sailyn Dean Photo Credit Chocs 'N Boxes

Making bars and bonbons with a Filipino Asian twist

In July 2021, Chicago welcomed Chocs ‘N Boxes, a tree-to-bar chocolate shop and factory. Using only cacao sourced directly from Samar farms, the shop delights in crafting tropical flavored bonbons, truffles, and pralines reflecting their Filipino influence. “I am proud of our Filipino heritage” explains Chef Sailyn “and we formulate products that incorporate Filipino flavors.” Their bonbons, truffles, and bars include ingredients such as ube (a purple yam with a naturally nutty vanilla taste), calamansi (a zesty citrus fruit), guava, mango, and pili nut (a crunchy, high protein superfood). In less than one year after opening, Chef Sailyn’s calamansi caramel 62% dark chocolate bonbon was recognized with an international taste award.

Winning awards in Chicago and the Philippines

Gerry has remained an agricultural leader for farmers in the Samar community, including a 2023 recognition as the first organic certified cacao farm in the Philippines. Sailyn has excelled in her new career as Chef and Head Chocolatier. In the 2 years since opening, Sailyn’s creative skills have been validated by Chocs ‘N Boxes’ creations winning 5 chocolate awards. Sailyn continues to balance the influence of her French mentor in developing new confections. Describing her newfound passion working with chocolate, Sailyn explains her joy “It’s like painting a blank canvas for me every day.”

The future

Drying cacao beans Photo Credit Chocs 'N Boxes

“The farms are an extension of our chocolate shop,” says Gerry. The couple, while proud of their progress, don’t hesitate to emphasize their ultimate mission saying “We want to make a positive impact on the people of Samar.” Today, cacao is shipped directly from the farm to the shop “on demand” meaning all cacao is processed immediately. They hope to grow large enough to assume the role of guaranteeing the purchase of all quality cacao from other Samarian farmers as well. “I want to give them confidence to plant more cacao.” Gerry confides. He further emphasizes “We never lose sight of our real mission to propagate cacao trees in the island of Samar. We set up our chocolate shop [...] as a means to ensure the sustainability of our farms.”

Chocs 'N Boxes shop in Chicago Photo Credit Chocs 'N Boxes

The Shop

The sunny, expansive shop is located in the Chicago suburb of Norridge, Illinois (not too far from the airport!) The welcoming staff invites you to observe the chocolate-making process through the glass viewing windows. Samples are generously offered, and stories are shared, in a chocolate shop where food and people connect to a remote Philippine Island from a bustling Chicago suburb.

Visit Chocs ‘N boxes at:

4371 N. Cumberland Avenue

Norridge, Illinois 60706

Tel. (708) 695-5256