Is Malaysia’s Cacao the Comeback Kid on the Fine Chocolate Scene?

Imagine tasting these jackfruit notes in a chocolate photo courtesy Ketaki Churri

‘Jackfruit. And burned caramel.’ This is what comes to my mind, mere seconds after popping a small shard of light reddish-brown chocolate into my mouth. The sample is offered by Wilfred Ng, chocolate maker, and Asian cacao ambassador. It is also the result of a first test batch using an origin from an unknown farm which Wilfred struggles to recall. “Looks like I’ll have to retrace my steps!” he jokes. Who can blame him; specialty cacao is blossoming all over the country with small producers everywhere eager to share their beans for Wilfred to try. If their beans display potential, they could well be on their way to joining the ranks of respectable Asian cacao plantations which he steadily works with.

We move on to another origin. This one is known as ‘Panchor’, from the cacao farm of Mr. Simon Ting in Malacca. Malacca was the first state to be colonized in Malaysian history (by the Portuguese) and incidentally, was where the first cacao beans were brought into the country thanks to the strategic Straits of Malaya.  The Panchor chocolate smells like a tangy fruit, so I expect a red fruit sour bomb. I am so wrong. It instead boasts notes of golden syrup, oolong tea, and dried figs.  I am enthralled. 

Don’t get me wrong – as a hardcore craft chocolate enthusiast, unique flavor notes are no stranger to me. But I am accustomed to encountering such characteristics from established fine cacao countries, with long magical (and as we know, often tragical) histories of cacao and chocolate. Malaysia is neither of these. I am a mix of pride and confusion as I digest the fact that these charismatic flavors are from the cacao of my own country. Full disclosure: I did not even like chocolate as a child. Growing up in a country where the temperatures are far too warm and muggy for anything but cold icy desserts, chocolate was far from being a lusted-after treat, much less the indulgent habit that it is now. In fact, in some Asian cultures, chocolate is assigned as a heat-producing food and therefore ill-advised for the body in high temperatures. 

The Rise of Chocolate in Malaysia

The mysterious origin sample photo courtesy of the author

For a country relatively recent to the specialty cacao and craft chocolate scene, it is remarkable how rapidly the standard of sensorial quality has been achieved. True, Malaysia has always had a strong research & development center for cacao, stemming as far back as British colonial times. Considering that my own father Head of Cocoa Research at the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute (MARDI).during the late 70s and early 80s, I’ve always had an inkling that exciting things involving Malaysia’s beloved cocoa fruits were happening. Little saplings in black PVC makeshift pots and shiny pods of various appearances were regular sightings in the hallway of our house.  We were, after all, one of the top cacao exporters in the 80s. 

Unfortunately, Malaysia’s glory days of cacao growing didn’t last. What went wrong, I ask my father (Dr.Ramadasan Krishnan) over an afternoon phone call. With great puzzlement over my sudden inquisitiveness about his career from almost 40 years ago, he explains, “Cocoa did have a great future in Malaysia […] until the cocoa pod borer came in.”  Ah, the infamous insect which plagued many a Southeast Asian cacao farm at the time. “Actually, research would have solved the problem, but everyone was already switching over to palm as it was less labor intensive than cocoa, even taking over rubber.” And that was that. The same can’t be said for cocoa production however – Malaysia is ranked 6th largest cocoa bean processing and grinding center in the world. 

So how did Malaysia come to have today’s fine cacao? There are numerous reasons, requiring a deep dive into historical archives. Summarily, it involves cacaos of the world being brought in, from Trinidad & Tobago’s Trinitario by the British to the Malaysian Cocoa Board’s years of activities – think saplings from Costa Rica and even the Brazilian Upper Amazon. Even today, the Malaysian Cocoa Board is said to have one of the largest libraries of research and development. Perhaps the more pertinent question is, when did Malaysia realize its fine cacao potential for even finer chocolate?

Key Players 

Wilfred explains the importance of fermentation to anyone who crosses Benns path photo courtesy of Ng

Enter Benns Ethicoa  - the largest craft chocolate maker in Malaysia, based in the bustling capital of Kuala Lumpur. Benns has been a key actor in reviving the Malaysian cacao scene, together with a few local cacao producers and bean-to-bar makers, such as Chocolate Concierge and Sabah-based Jaws & Claws. Benns isn’t just an ambassador for Malaysian cacao, however. The brand’s differentiating factor is its specialization in Asian specialty cacaos solely. Working closely with farms and plantations in Vietnam, Thailand, India, and the Philippines, Benns employs the trademark ‘Bean to Bar’ philosophy of Direct Trade. I cannot help but be reminded of the old days when my father too, worked closely with Malaysia’s neighboring cacao growers to support them. “We know each of our farmers in person,” affirms Wilfred. He also adds, “We wanted our chocolate brand to not only be known for their flavors but also other good attributes. We call it Moving Beyond Flavor.”  Paying their farmers ‘up to 3x the market price depending on the bean quality & promoting good farming practices’, is the tip of the iceberg that is Benns’ motto.

Asmiriam marries Venezuelan chocolate ethos with Malaysian cacao photo courtesy of the author

Wilfred shares the fruits of his cacao hunting labor with other local chocolate makers, including Alba Chocolatier in Kuala Lumpur. Where else Benns focuses on larger scale production, Alba instead specializes in micro-batch craft chocolate. Alba’s powerhouse of women chocolate makers is led by Asmiriam Roa, who sources some of her best origins from Wilfred. Originally from Venezuela, this former lawyer turned chocolate maker refined her craft in the renowned Cacao de Origen in Caracas and is putting those hard-earned skills into coaxing out flavors from Malaysian beans unlike ever known before. 

A sampling of Roa’s super light brown ‘Bera’ origin bar leaves you with a complex yet satisfying tasting journey of deep forest honey, tangy soursop, and cedarwood before rounding it all off with hints of black tea. Roa’s time at Cacao de Origen, which nails light roast chocolate to perfection, has clearly influenced her exceptional chocolate-making style.  Roa also attributes her specialty coffee roasting skills as a contributory factor. “The more I am learning about specialty coffee, the better chocolate I am making!” she proclaims. Roa tries to replicate some protocols to bring out the best of each respective origin. “I want to offer the authentic, unique tastes and aromas of each origin.” she declares. I gaze woefully at the last and final piece of my Bera bar and think, authentic and unique sounds about right. 

The Future for Chocolate in Malaysia

So, what is next for Malaysian cacao and craft chocolate then? Wilfred’s response is enlightening and catches me slightly off guard. “[…]it’s not only about craft chocolate.[…] Craft chocolate markets are small. We believe that to effectively promote and sustain cacao farms in Malaysia is to turn them into healthier cocoa ingredients for mass commercial use. We are in the process of doing that!”  Fine flavor cacao in the mass chocolate market to support and develop local cacao scenes? Now, that’s what I call impact. Or, as Wilfred might say – that’s us Moving Beyond Flavor.