The Rise of Thai Chocolate | The Chocolate Professor

When it comes to sweet desserts Thailand certainly ranks amongst the best in the world with its unique traditional recipes, many of which go back centuries. Referred to locally as ‘kanum’ (translating into ‘sweet rice’), Thailand’s sweet treats go far beyond the ubiquitous mango sticky rice. However, a new entrant has slowly been melting its way into Thailand’s sweet scene today. Embracing the growing international trend of specialty, or craft, chocolate, Thailand is slowly but surely becoming an emerging hotbed of specialty cacao and craft chocolate. Neither has been present in Thailand’s historic landscape, whether from a cultural or agronomical perspective, which makes chocolate’s arrival on the Thai gourmet scene even more astonishing and impressive. Is chocolate thus becoming the new ‘kanum’ in Thailand?

Craft Chocolate in Thailand

Thailand certainly isn’t the first Asian country to churn out fantastic chocolates in the region; many will be familiar with stellar artisan chocolates from Vietnam, the Philippines, Indonesia Malaysia, and Singapore. Daniel Bucher of Pridi Pridi Cacaofevier, a popular local bean-to-bar brand based in Bangkok, who also serves as the Vice President of the Thai Trade Association of Cacao and Chocolate (Thailand's very first and very own trade association working specifically on the cacao and chocolate value chain in Thailand) shares, “The craft chocolate scene is very new and only had very few players until about 5 years ago. We are lucky to be riding on the back of the craft coffee movement, which is also a new movement to Thailand, but has now developed into an impressive and versatile environment from farmers and processors to micro roasters and coffee shops.”

Siamaya founders Neil Ransom and Kristian Levinsen photo credit Siamaya

Neil Ransom of Siamaya Chocolate, one of the first craft chocolate companies in Thailand and based in Chiang Mai, elaborates further. “Thai consumers love food and are very discerning and critical of what they eat. Craft chocolate is still very new and much of the excitement around the industry is due to the localness of the cacao and chocolate manufacturing. Additionally, there is an annual craft chocolate festival and a recently launched trade association that are helping to grow excitement and consumer interest in craft chocolate. Some companies are finding inroads with health-conscious consumers and people choosing to eat more local products.”

The Thai Market for Chocolate

In the international craft chocolate world, it is not unusual to find chocolate purists clamoring for chocolate bars over any other sort of chocolate creation. However, both Ransom and Bucher are quick to point out that chocolate trends differ in Thailand, with preferences instead leaning towards other chocolate confections rather than bars. “Thailand is a large consumer of chocolate, though not primarily in chocolate bar form. Most consumption occurs through drinks, cakes, and small candy bars/snack bars like KitKat and Ferrero Rocher. Local perception towards craft chocolate is one of keen interest but also a demand for multiple product ranges, not just chocolate bars. Consequently, most craft chocolate makers offer a range of products including drinks, bonbons, pastries, and other products in addition to their chocolate bars (if they even make chocolate bars),” Ransom explains.

Ransom’s point is echoed by Bucher. “Introducing the concept of craft chocolate bars was a journey of discovery for both producers and consumers[…]While the challenge of differentiating ourselves from established global brands was present, the primary hurdle was simply introducing people to the idea of savoring a chocolate bar as a standalone product. Chocolate bars (tablets) were not a commonly eaten or purchased product in Thailand.”

“Different chocolate makers approached this from different angles with some makers clearly targeting mostly tourists or expats, while other makers focusing on chocolate drinks or confectionary entirely, with little interest in selling chocolate tablets (bars).” Bucher concludes.

Igniting interest in locally-made craft chocolate, or getting Thai consumers to choose local craft chocolate over imported brands has not been without its challenges. Perhaps this may be because in Thailand, large global chocolate brands do not present major disparities with locally made craft chocolate. For example, Ransom points out how industrial chocolate brands’ bars are already priced relatively high, so full-sized chocolate bars are perceived as a luxury good. However, he does note that Thai consumers are excited to learn that there is local cacao and that delicious chocolate can be made from it.

Another chocolate maker, Khaled Shbib of Barada Chocolate based in the popular tourist destination Phuket Island, shares his experience. “The beginning was slow. In Phuket, a popular tourist destination, we attract visitors from all over the world. Despite our efforts in advertising and offering free samples, people unfamiliar with our chocolate were initially hesitant. However, once they tried it, they kept returning. Now, we have loyal customers from Switzerland, Belgium, France, and many other countries who purchase our chocolate to take home or send to their families. Additionally, we have a growing number of Thai customers who regularly return with their families and friends.”

Pridi confections — Pridi's version of popular commercial chocolates reigns popular photo credit Pridi

Bucher, on the other hand, has chosen a path less trodden. “For me at Pridi, the situation is slightly different […] Given my background as a chef in hotels and fine dining, I set out to make a chocolate that is competitive with global brands in a professional setting. Most of our customers are chefs in high-end hotels and restaurants, so here the main selling point is exceptional quality paired with the sustainability aspect of full traceability and local supply chains. From my customers, the interest in local made products was very high, as many hotel chains are shifting their focus more and more to sustainable operations, while fine dining restaurants have been leading the way in this respect for years. By positioning my chocolate as a product of exceptional quality for professional use and emphasizing our commitment to sustainability and traceability, we’ve been able to capture the interest of both local and international customers. Our success specifically lies in showcasing the potential of Thai cacao and demonstrating how it can compete with the very best in the world.”

Chocolate Drinks are Cool

So, what is trending in the Thai chocolate scene right now? Unsurprisingly, it turns out chocolate and cacao beverages are in the limelight.

Once again, Bucher provides insights, “The Thai craft chocolate scene is experiencing a surge in popularity, particularly in the realm of chocolate drinks. There is no long-standing tradition in chocolate in Thailand, so it isn’t so much about serving traditional drinking chocolate like in Latin America, or your classic European hot chocolate. The country's hot climate makes iced chocolate an appealing option, and the creativity of Thai baristas has led to innovative and refreshing beverage creations. Additionally, the availability of fresh cacao pulp has opened up new possibilities for flavor exploration.”

Pridi has embraced this trend by launching a dedicated chocolate restaurant in Raynue, in Gaysorn Amaring Shopping mall with a menu featuring a wide range of chocolate drinks, from classic hot chocolate to experimental cacao pulp-based beverages. Their most creative cacao-based beverage may be a cacao cola, made from using surplus cacao husk and local spices.

It seems that there is plenty of innovation in craft chocolate drinks, utilizing cacao mass, craft chocolate, fresh cacao juice, and cacao shell tea to create unique beverages. Ransom says, “A local cafe in Chiang Mai has a menu of over 10 chocolate drinks, including sipping chocolates with five or six Thai cacao bean origins. At the annual chocolate festival, they even hold a “Chocorista” competition to determine who makes the best chocolate drink that year. I wouldn't be surprised to see a new global drinking chocolate trend in the near future with its start in Thailand.”

Uniquely Thai

Chocolatemaker Warit holding Thai inspired bar moulds photo credit Paradai

For a country that is relatively new to chocolate and cacao, it is astounding to find numerous local craft chocolate makers present today, many of which are internationally award-winning. Thai chocolate is unique in its own right, from marrying Thai culture and ingredients into its flavors and presentation. For example, Paradai, a Thai chocolate maker based in Bangkok presents its stellar chocolate bars in marvelous Thai traditional designs, and also produces bonbons with Thai flavors. Pridi is another example, where Bucher’s creativity and gastronomic expertise puts forward a craft chocolate bar made with Thai fish sauce. “[…] our PlaPlaPla chocolate, featuring organic fish sauce caramel, has garnered significant attention and has become a real signature product. I think this specific tablet became so popular because of its use of fish sauce, one of the most iconic flavors and seasonings for Thai cuisine. If you are wondering – this chocolate is not smelly or fishy – it is more a very thick Umami baseline flavor, a bit like Italian anchovies in a rich chocolate sauce. If that sounds weird to you, you have to try for yourself. It is very delicious! I think it is the unexpected combination of flavors that reflects the adventurous spirit of modern Bangkok and showcases the versatitily of chocolate that resonates especially with Thais.”

Siamaya also embraces Thai flavors, with its array of chocolate bars ranging from sweet Thai milk tea and arabica coffees, to more adventurous savoury flavors of durian, bullet chilli and even tom yum soup. “Our decision to focus on Thailand was purposeful so that we could add Southeast Asian flavors to the global chocolate library. Doing so has not been easy, as sourcing ingredients proves much more challenging than if we just did European or American-inspired flavors. Even though we are based in Thailand, finding natural ingredients that go well with chocolate can be challenging, and we often have to work directly with producers to ensure we find the quality ingredients we need.” says Ransom. He drives home the point with the story behind their upcoming passionfruit bar. “We have wanted to make a passionfruit bar for years but have been unable to find real passionfruit powder to add to our bars. Every powder we tried contained milk, artificial flavoring, and coloring, and was intended for adding to cheap smoothies or ice cream. This did not make sense to me since there is fresh passionfruit everywhere. We finally found a solution by working directly with a freeze-dry company and hiring them to custom freeze-dry passionfruit pulp for us. After three years, we are finally able to launch a passionfruit product this October, ‘Popping Passion Fruit’.”

If there is one takeaway from our glimpse into the chocolate scene in Thailand, it is this: unbound by tradition, and with a focus on quality and creativity, Thailand will be one country to watch as its craft chocolate continues to develop.