Experts' Top Hot Chocolate Spots in Paris

Dengo boutique Abbesses Paris — Dengo boutique, Abbesses photo credit Natalia Khoroshayeva

In all great art, there is a place for classic masterpieces as well as contemporary innovations; this maxim applies perfectly to the Paris hot chocolate scene.

I have been lucky to visit Paris several times, but never in winter. I always wished I could partake in the warming ritual of steaming cups of chocolat chaud. French versions are often made directly from chocolate bars or cocoa beans and as far away from the powdered stuff I grew up on as our packaged bread is from a fresh baguette.

On a recent June visit, I was delighted to discover that a score of cafes and tearooms offer their versions year-round. But how to choose?

I turned to three experts who each provided recommendations:

Irène Lurcat, co-author of Paris Gourmandises , leads chocolate tours in Paris. Multi-award-winning American cookbook author, Dorie Greenspan, lives part-time in Paris. Chocolate sommelier and Chocolate Professor contributor Estelle Tracy, who grew up in France, and now lives in the US, where she offers training and tastings at 37Chocolates.

But first, a little history.

History of Hot Chocolate in Paris

For a brief historical perspective on French hot chocolate, I turned to chocolate enthusiast, Stephen Gilgunn, who leads food tours in Paris. He told me:

"Cacao was a drink for most of its existence, from the Mayan times to today.

Hot chocolate was favored in the royal courts from the 1600s onwards when the Spanish introduced cacao to Europe. Only the rich could afford it and it became a drink known for being an aphrodisiac, for having health virtues and energizing effects. Hot chocolate became more popular down the years as it became more accessible to society in general. So, it's always been there. Angelina made it popular because so many famous people hung out there."

Irène discovered that “chocolate made its official debut in France in 1615, when Louis XIII married Anne of Austria, both aged 14. The bride, daughter of King Philip III of Spain, was an avid chocolate drinker and became chocolate's ambassador at court.

She also mentioned other renowned royal chocolate fans, such as Madame Pompadour and Marie Antoinette.

Estelle added, “Traditionally, in France, chocolat chaud was water based.” Her blog cites a book called Monography de Cacao, written in 1827, whose recipes for drinking chocolate were made with water or almond milk. “They didn’t mention milk,” she told me. “Water was how it was done in Meso-America and also here.”

Top 5 Spots for Hot Chocolate

Plaq

Luckily, Estelle happened to be in Paris when I was, and we met at her current favorite hot chocolate spot, Plaq. This little shop was also recommended by Irène, who told me, “Plaq’s hot chocolate is made with Maya Mountain cocoa beans from Belize, which are very fruity and tangy. It is boiled and infused overnight. When you order, it’s reheated with a nozzle, giving it a smoothness and intensity.”

Estelle and I sipped our petite cups. With only three ingredients, chocolate, sugar and water, it was intensely delicious. I loved it. Unusual for a Paris chocolate shop, you can see and smell the beans roasting inside.

I asked Estelle what she looks for in a drinking chocolate. “Taste is very personal,” she said. “I like when it’s low in sugar and has a thick, creamy texture. I want it to taste like cacao.”

Estelle introduced me to Nicholas Rozier-Chabert, co-founder of Plaq. I asked him to describe what makes his chocolat chaud different. “It’s fruity, intense, and chocolatey,” he replied. “The secret is the quality of the bean and ours is as close as possible to the bean. I think we are the only one who make it directly from the beans.” Nicholas admitted he was inspired by San Francisco’s Dandelion Chocolate. He, and co-founder Sandra Mielenhausen, opened Plaq in 2019.

Angelina

All three experts told me I had to visit Angelina, which has been serving hot chocolate and pastries in an elegant tearoom on Rue de Rivoli since 1903 and appears on every “Best Hot Chocolates in Paris” list.

Dorie confessed: “I am a chocolat chaud romantic. I love everything about it and all the warmth and sweetness that even just saying the words conjure. But I'm not a regular hot chocolate drinker. If it were served in sips rather than cups, I might have it more often. Good hot chocolate - and who'd want anything else - is exceedingly rich…I remember with fondness the ritual and the deliciousness of hot chocolate from Angelina's.”

Estelle said, “Go for the nostalgia. It’s like looking at the Eiffel tower. You have to do it. It’s the classic. Then compare. And the service is impeccable. We need tourists to know, Paris is not a museum. There is a place for Angelina, but people want different things. That’s what makes the city alive. You shouldn’t shut the door on tradition, but you should also be open.”

One feature of Angelina’s location on Rue de Rivoli, is its extreme popularity, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait in line outside for up to an hour. But when you are finally ushered into the elegant Art Nouveau dining room (that Coco Chanel supposedly frequented daily) all that is forgotten. The service is charming, the selection of pastries overwhelming, and the hot chocolate deep and rich, but not overly sweet. It is served with a très petite pitcher of whipped cream that you can add to your liking. I felt like a queen.

Le Select

After steeping myself in the charm of the traditional, I decided to try another of Irène’s recommendations: Le Select, Montparnasse.

On their website, celebrated French chef, Alain Ducasse, describes the hot chocolate at this storied brasserie, founded in 1923, where Picasso, Hemingway and Fitzgerald were regulars. “Two plump, proud pots, one large and one small, find their way to your table. First, the dark, wild liqueur of melted dark chocolate. Then the caress of foaming milk. This is Select's old-fashioned chocolate, as thick as a high-wool carpet and as comforting as a roaring fire.”

Those evocative words prepared me for another luscious taste of history -- but not for the rudest waiter I have ever encountered. I ordered the chocolat chaud and was presented with the two vessels containing thick melted chocolate and warm milk. While stirring the unctuous mixture in my cup, I realized I needed a napkin but noticed that the waiter had not provided one. Noticing that the empty table adjoining mine had a nice linen napkin, I reached over to bring it to mine. Just then--as if he was watching me to make just such a move--the waiter leapt back, snatched the napkin out of my hand, and snarled, “Madame, elles sont très chères!” (Ma’am, these are very expensive!). Then he threw down a paper towel! The hot chocolate was indeed sweet and thick. And I won’t forget the experience.

Enough tradition, back to modern innovation.

Une Glace a Paris

Irène told me that besides having the best ice cream in Paris, Une Glace à Paris, also serves fantastic hot chocolate; in fact, they offer seven different flavors. She recommended the Tanzanie 75%, “with Madagascar vanilla and Ceylon cinnamon, it is chocolatey, not too sweet, with just the right balance of milk and cream.” Then she added, “but if you're in the mood for adventure, try the smoky-tasting Inaya.” Naturally, I went for the Inaya, which, true to its label, provided a gustatory adventure with an intense, smoked cacao taste. One thing surprised me: when ordering, I asked the server if this hot chocolate would be made with water or milk, as I had decided that I preferred the lighter taste of water-based drinks. “Neither” he said, “it’s made with cream,” showing me the whipping cream box. I had a sinking feeling, but amazingly, after the cocoa and the whipping cream enjoyed a spin in a professional milkshake machine, the cocoa turned out delightfully light, frothy and flavorful.

Dengo

Dengo was on both Estelle’s and Dorie’s list. I knew their Brazilian chocolates and their commitment to supporting both the environment and their cocoa farmers from last year’s Salon du Chocolat. Their chocolat chaud is made with oat milk. And it has a special topping: ground tonka beans (which are illegal in the US!) Their fabulous drink was indeed subtle and sublime, as the ground spice expanded, each sip morphed into another, deeper flavor.

I asked Charles Znaty, a co-founder of Pierre Hermé Paris, who now collaborates with chef Thomas Bassoleil at Dengo, about why they use oat milk.

“Oat milk has a creamy texture and mild flavor that pairs perfectly with our chocolate, creating a deliciously comforting drink,” he said. “It adds a slightly sweet note that balances the bitterness of the chocolate without stealing the show. With a low-fat content, it is more digestible and is better assimilated to chocolate, which in turn contains cocoa butter.” And why the tonka beans? I asked. “The tonka bean grows in the forests of Brazil, and is called cumaru,” he told me. “It is known for its complex notes of vanilla, almond and caramel. The final touch of our extremely high quality cumaru is a subtle way of seasoning this drink with a slightly spicy and floral note that pays homage to the terroirs of the Bahia region.”

I can’t wait for my next visit to discover what’s new (and old) in Paris’ hot chocolate scene.