Brazil’s First Chocolate Educator, Zelia Frangioni is a Leading Bean to Bar Advocate
For many, Brazil may seem to be a new trendy cacao origin. After all, we are seeing an increase in Brazilian speciality cacao cropping up in both European and North American chocolatemakers’ portfolios. The French Bean to Bar Association has even recently kicked off a collaboration with its Brazilian counterpart. But the truth of the matter is that Brazilian speciality cacao, as well as a thriving local Bean to Bar scene, have been ongoing for some time, and Zelia Frangioni has not only been there at the inception of it all but has also contributed significantly toward its blossoming success.
Background
Frangioni’s foray into speciality chocolate is almost accidental. It was 2014 and she had been working on website development for her job, which included testing out a blogging platform. Given her great love of chocolate, she thought that this would be a fitting subject to blog about. As she began to write for her test blog, she realised that everything she thought she knew about chocolate, was merely the tip of the iceberg. She set out on a road of fascinating, in-depth discovery of the chocolate and cacao world, and thus, Chocolatras (meaning ‘Chocoholic’ in Portuguese) Online was born. A year later, she stumbled across the American Bean to Bar movement. Says Frangioni, “The term ‘Bean to Bar’ did not even exist here at the time. Sure, we had cacao, but not of the fine variety and there was none of the equipment we see now. But, those into cacao farming such as the Aquinos (Baiani) and Rogerio Kamei (Mestico) were looking into it.”
A Proponent for Brazilian Bean to Bar Chocolate
Frangioni soon realised that she was the only one in Brazil covering Bean to Bar chocolate. “I wanted to talk about the sort of chocolate that was a leading actor, and not a supporting role, like cooking chocolate or couverture. Bean to Bar chocolate was perfect for that. It is (meant) for tasting, not for baking or cooking.” It was only a matter of time before Arcelia Gallardo of the famed Mission Chocolate reached out to her. In 2017, Arcelia had the idea to begin a Brazilian Chocolate Awards, and Frangioni supported it fully. The ‘Premio Bean to Bar Brasil’ was the result and to date, 5 editions of the awards have run. “The goal of the Premio is to promote Bean to Bar chocolate in Brazil, and improve quality by issuing feedback to the makers.” In fact, the makers themselves participate in the judging. Every chocolate entry must be submitted in the designated mould design that Frangioni sends them. It is a mechanism that Frangioni has put in to ensure that the samples are fully blind, and therefore, objective. This year, she hand-wrapped an astounding seven thousand entries/samples of chocolate for the Premio. Clearly, the Brazilian craft chocolate-making scene is booming. Some of her recent projects also include a revised flavour wheel, to match the developments and improvements of Brazilian fine cacao as well as a brand-new chocolate course.
A 360 Degree Approach
Frangioni firmly believes that the focus of chocolate education isn’t limited to consumers alone. “We can educate makers on how to educate consumers. How to reach and convince them when they aren’t face to face (with the consumer).” She elaborates further, “At artisanal markets, makers know how to communicate their message, but they may not necessarily know how to translate that connection to social media. And chocolate makers may not have time to reach consumers too. In Brazil, social media and digital marketing is huge, which means chocolate makers really need to be on it.”
She also shares fascinating insights into the marketing of Bean to Bar chocolate. “I don’t believe that Bean to Bar chocolate should be sold in supermarkets. It shouldn’t be on the same shelf as a Hershey's bar. In the art world, if you paint something – how is it considered art? It depends on where you put it. If it’s in a gallery or a museum, it is ‘art’. Otherwise, it’s just a painting.” She nails the point with the following. “If I had to equate it, it is something like a Montblanc pen versus a regular office ballpoint pen. The way we present it, and to the right market, matters.” So, what can makers do to improve here? “Prepare your packaging to be sold as a special thing. Put the value of the product on it […]the image must relate to the good quality inside. Make it special.”
Current Favorite Chocolates
Casa Lasevicius chocolate bars
Unsurprisingly, Frangioni has garnered many favourites over these past eight years. She lists off Pralus’s Chuao, Marou’s Ben Tre, Mission Chocolate’s Fazenda Camboa as her favourite single origins. For inclusions, she’s a big fan of Pump Street’s Sourdough and Mission Chocolate’s Pao de Mel (a type of Brazilian spiced gingerbread) ‘It’s difficult to choose, it depends on the situation!’ she exclaims. “I could take any of these bars with me to heaven.” she jokes.
Her recommendation for those new to Brazilian craft chocolate is Casa Lasevicius, a brand that works with the greatest number of cacao origins in Brazil and is often Zelia’s go-to. “He (Bruno Lasevicius) has a wide range of bars and flavour profiles to amaze those who are beginning to taste craft bars. He also has creativity for unusual inclusions and bars.”
Her best tip for new craft chocolate consumers? “Dark chocolate does not have to be bitter, especially in Brazil. 'Bitter chocolate' is just the name for dark chocolate here.”
Ever the advocate for Brazilian fine chocolate, she encourages people to try it sayin, “People should try Brazilian Bean to Bar (chocolate) because it is getting better with every season, and they are winning awards everywhere. These days, Brazilian cacao can be fruity or even floral. Brazilian cacao has changed.”